Candle Troubleshooting

Problem	Possible Causes	Possible Solutions
Candle smokes excessively when it burns	High oil content Wick is too large Candle may have air pockets Flame too high There is a draft	Decrease the amount of fragrance oil Try a smaller wick size Pour candles at a hotter temperature and/or poke release holes and refill Keep wick trimmed to 1/4 inch Do not burn candles in a drafty area
Candle does not have a good scent throw (Note: Everyone’s scent palate smells differently!)	There is not enough fragrance Too much vybar was added Low quality fragrance Burn pool size is wrong You have been working with various fragrances and your nose has become immune to the environment Wax was left on the heat source too long allowing the fragrance to evaporate	We recommend 40 ml fragrance oil per kg of wax (if more is needed, do not go over the maximum fragrance load the wax can hold) We recommend 2 tsp of vybar per KG of wax Try a better quality, more concentrated fragrance oil Make sure you have a 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep (side to side) burn pool in about 4-5 hours (for optimal scent throw) Have multiple people test your candles in different environments Add fragrance oil last, just before pouring
Fragrance oil is settling to the bottom of the candle	Used too much fragrance Forgot to add additive to paraffin wax.	We recommend 40ml fragrance oil per KG of wax (if problem recurs, use less than recommended) Add vybar to your wax to evenly disperse the fragrance oil
Second pour is not blending well with the first pour or repour(s) separated from candle after removal	Poured second pour too late Poured second pour too cool	Try to do the second pour when candle is still a little warm and not fully hardened. (caution—if you pour the second poor too soon, that re-pour will sink just like your first pour) Increase temperature of second pour
Candle wax is not burning evenly all of the way down.	Wax is too hard (too high of a melt point) Wick is too small	May want to use a wax with a lower melt point that is softer Try a larger wick size
Candle wick is drowning out (not staying lit)	Wick is too small Wick is getting clogged Wick is not primed (waxed) Too much slack in wick (pillar) Lack of wick tab (container)	Try a larger wick size Use less fragrance oil, essential oil, and/or dye; do not use dyes that contain pigments (use those for over-dipping only) Use waxed wicks OR soak raw wicking in melted wax before use Pull wick taut when wicking mold Use a wick tab to support the wick during the last hours of burning
Candle will not come out of the mold	Mold is new or “unconditioned” Pouring temperature is too low Temperature is too high Mold is dented Candle not cool enough to take out of mold There is an air bubble trapped inside suctioning the candle to the mold The second pour was overfilled, seeped around your first pour, and expanded too far	Clean the mold, re-melt the wax, and re-pour or use mold release spray to condition the mold. Increase the pouring temperature Keep candles 2”-3” apart when cooling and make sure candles cool from the bottom first, not the top (to do this cool candles on a wire rack) Re-melt the candle to get the wax out, un-dent the mold, and re-pour OR purchase a new mold Wait longer until the candle has fully cooled and hardened Work the mold by massaging it in order to release the trapped air Re-melt the wax and re-pour being careful not to go above the original pour level
Candle is getting jump lines (visible lines on the outside of the candle or container candle)	Added too much palm stearic acid Container or mold was too cool when the candle was poured Pouring temperature is too low	We recommend 2 Tbsp. palm stearic acid per kg of wax (is problem recurs, use less than recommended) Pre-heat your container or mold prior to pouring Increase the pouring temperature
Candle surface has pit marks (small holes)	Wax was poured into mold/container too fast causing air bubbles Dust particles were inside mold/container at time of pouring Water got in the wax at time of pouring Candle cooled too fast Pouring temperature is too low or high Used dirty wax	Pour the candle at a slow and steady rate and after candle is poured tap on sides of mold/container to release air Make sure the mold/container is clean before you use it Pre-heat your mold/container prior to pouring Make sure that water (from a double boiler or elsewhere) never gets into your wax Keep candles 2”-3” apart when cooling and make sure candles cool from the bottom first, not the top (to do this cool candles on a wire rack) Decrease or increase the pouring temperature accordingly Always keep your melting pots and wax clean—pour dirty wax through cheesecloth to filter
Candle surface is frosting (white dusty appearance on surface or cauliflower look on surface)	Room temperature is too cold Candle cooled too fast or too slow Mold/container was too cold Pouring temperature is too high or too low Fragrance does not work well with the wax you are using Candle was forced from mold before being ready	Increase room temperature Keep candles 2”-3” apart when cooling and make sure candles cool at a steady rate from the bottom first, not the top (to do this cool candles on a wire rack) Pre-heat mold/container prior to pouring Decrease or increase the pouring temperature accordingly Change fragrances or use a different wax with that fragrance Wait longer until the candle has fully cooled
Candle is cracking	Candle cooled too fast Candle was put in the freezer or fridge The well in a paraffin candle was refilled after the wax in the mold had cooled too much/completely hardened Pillar candle with a wick too small	Keep candles 2”-3” apart when cooling and make sure candles cool from the bottom first, not the top (to do this cool candles on a wire rack) Putting candles in the freezer or fridge can cause them to become brittle and crack Try to do the second poor when candle is still a little warm Thick walls tend to crack, try a larger wick size
Wax is too brittle causing chips to break away	Too much additive was added Too many different additives were used Storage area too cold	Decrease the amount of additive used Do not use as many additives Increase room temperature (we recommend 44-70°F)
Container candle has wet spots (wax is not adhering to the side of the container)	Candle cooled too fast Room temperature is too cold Container was dirty at time of pouring Container was too cold	Keep candles 2”-3” apart when cooling and make sure candles cool from the bottom first, not the top (to do this cool candles on a wire rack) Increase room temperature Make sure container is clean before you use it Pre-heat container prior to pouring
Container candle is tunneling (melt down the middle and leave leftover wax on sides of container)	Wick is too small Candle was burnt for short periods of time Wax is too hard/has too high of a melt point for the wick Too much or the wrong type of additives were used	Try a larger wick size Burn the candle for at least 1 hour per inch in diameter to ensure an equal burn Try a softer wax with a lower melt point Use the least amount of additives needed for the desired effect
Wick is mushrooming (carbon and/or other substances build up on the wick)	Fragrance and/or dye is collecting in the wick and interfering with combustion The wick naturally mushrooms Too rich of a wax formula Wick is too small	Try different fragrance/dye combinations Zinc cored wicks and others naturally have this effect, try a different type of wick to get rid of mushrooming Try a harder wax Try a larger wick size
Pillar candle is guttering (a hole in the wall of the candle that allows wax to spill out)	Wick is too large	Try a smaller wick size
Candle has a sink hole by the wick (Note: It is normal if a small 1/4 inch “crack” appears by the wick when the candle is completely cooled)	Candle cooled too fast The wax naturally shrinks while cooling.	Keep candles 2”-3” apart when cooling and make sure candles cool from the bottom first, not the top (to do this cool candles on a wire rack) Pre-heat mold/container prior to pouring or while candle is cooling poke holes around wick and refill (may need to do more than two pours)
Candle is sweating (oil droplets on candle surface)	Too much oil in wax Room temperature is too hot Additives were not used.	We recommend 40ml fragrance oil per Kg of wax (if problem recurs, use less than recommended) Decrease room temperature or take candle out of direct sunlight Use proper additives for the wax you are using and the desired effect
Palm wax candle is not crystallizing	Mold/container was too cold Candle cooled too fast Candles were too close together Candle was taken out from under the box before it was ready	You must pre-heat mold/container prior to pouring Uou must place a box over the candle to retain the heat and allow the palm wax to cool slowly Keep candles 2”-3” apart when cooling Wait longer until the candle has fully cooled
The same wick is not working in the soy candle like it did in the paraffin candle	Wick size is wrong	Soy waxes require larger wick sizes than paraffin, try a different size wick
Candle is mottling (white snowflake-like marks all over it)	Too much oil in wax Candle cooled too fast Used too much mold release Lack of additives	Use an additive to fully disperse oil throughout the wax Keep candles 2”-3” apart when cooling and make sure candles cool from the bottom first, not the top (to do this cool candles on a wire rack) Wipe out extra mold release and remember to use less next time Use proper additives for the wax you are using and the desired effect
Flame flickers/sputters	Water got in the wax at time of pouring Water trapped in wick from water bath Wick is not primed (waxed)	Make sure that water (from a double boiler or elsewhere) never gets into your wax—if it does, pour off melted wax and relight candle (if that doesn’t help re-melt and start over) Make sure wick hole is securely sealed on the mold Use waxed wicks OR soak raw wicking in melted wax before use
Pillar/Taper/Votive candle is dripping	There is a draft Wick is off center Wax is too soft/melt point is too low	Do not burn candles in a drafty area Carefully move the wick into the center with a non-flammable object Try a harder wax with a higher melt point
Candle has dark spots on the top	Dye did not thoroughly mix in Used dirty wax Pigment used instead of dye	Thoroughly stir dye into the melted wax before pouring Always keep your melting pots and wax clean—pour dirty wax through cheesecloth to filter Do not use pigments for solid coloring (use for over-dipping only)
Pillar candle mold leaks	Wick hole is not properly sealed	Use mold sealer generously and pull wick taut
Colored layers bled together	Re-poured too soon Re-poured too hot	Wait until a rubbery surface has formed on the previous layer Reduce the pouring temperature of the layers
Candle’s color has faded	UV rays from sunlight and artificial light	Add UV Inhibitor to reduce fading AND/ORstore candles in a dark place